Costa Mesa is a city with rich, Orange County history woven throughout its community fabric.
Even as our city becomes more modernized – new buildings, businesses and neighborhoods replacing the old at an increasing clip – there are still those Costa Mesans working to preserve important pieces of our past.
One iconic business that has meant a lot to locals, for a very long time, is The Globe European Delicatessen (Globe Deli, for short) at 1928 Harbor Boulevard, just north of where it transects 19th Street.
The Globe has been around since 1968, and has changed hands a fair number of times across the decades. It was recently aquired by local Costa Mesan, Jason Savisaar, who – according to countless, positive Yelp reviews – has succeeded in breathing new life into the historic delicatessen and imported-foods market.
The secret to Savisaar’s success with The Globe Deli can be found in his humble, hardworking approach.
“Put down my title as dishwasher, meat-slicer, counter-shiner, floor-mopper,” said Savisaar. “I’m just wearing the hats that it takes to keep The Globe turning. Truly, I am just the steward of this place. The Globe is its own entity, it really is. I’m just here to take care of it, polish it up, carry on the tradition.”
“It’s a community-oriented gathering place that serves good food made with good intention,” he continued. “We put a lot of love into the food, with fresh, generous portions. It’s a piece of old-school Costa Mesa, the part that’s rapidly disappearing.”
Jason Savisaar: “I’m Just A Steward Of The Globe,” at The Globe Deli in Costa Mesa, Calif.
Photo: Brandy Young
The Globe has been a part of Savisaar’s life since he can remember. The grandson of immigrants, he has early memories of coming to The Globe with his grandmother, listening to her chat up the owners in German.
“My family emigrated from Germany,” said Savisaar. “They were Estonian, mostly, and had to leave Estonia when Russia invaded. They moved to Germany and lived there during my mom’s formative years. So a large part of my upbringing was in the German culture – the food, the traditions, the language.”
Eventually, his family moved to Orange County and he came along.
“My childhood was like growing up in a dual reality. At home, I have these German-Estonian grandparents with all the traditions that come with that. Then I go outside and it’s beaches and California and, ‘Hey, what are you eating? What’s sauerkraut?'”
What Savisaar really remembers about The Globe, from his childhood years, is the energy of the place.
“There was always a buzz in here, that’s what I remember,” said Savisaar. “We’d come in to stock our fridge, come in for supplies. There were always about four people working the counter, running back and forth. You had to grab a number and wait your turn.”
“Pretty sure I drank my first beer here, too,” he added with a laugh.
Tasty is Timeless: The Globe Deli Features A Time-Tested Variety Of Delicious, German-Inspired Foods
Photos: Brandy Young
Savisaar had been managing Costa Mesa’s Pitfire Pizza when he heard The Globe Deli was up for sale.
“I left Pitfire right as this opportunity came along and it felt like the perfect storm,” said Savisaar.
Since aquiring The Globe Deli, Savisaar is careful to walk the line between honoring the existing, time-tested recipes – while still making small, incremental improvements to shore up the deli for the future.
“The sauerkraut recipe has been handed down and it really good,” said Savisaar. “It’s hard to find good sauerkraut out there. Ours is well seasoned and then you cook it down so it caramelizes and sweetens up just a bit. It’s delicious.”
Other favorites include the Roasted Tomato Soup, German Chicken Noodle Soup, Split-Pea Soup, and the Sausage Special.
“We’ve got every kind of sausage for the Special,” said Savisaar. “Everything from hot-and-spicy polish keilbasa, to bratwurst, bockwurst, knackwurst, frankwurst… those come on a toasted bun, put some mustard on that, and serve it with your choice of side.”
But there’s one menu item at The Globe that Savisaar says flies off the shelf like no other: their Reuben sandwich.
“Oh man, the Reuben has taken off like wildfire,” said Savisaar. “It really moves! We serve a lot of those.”
We tried the Reuben during our visit – to see what all the fuss was about – and we can definitely see why it sells so well. It is melt-in-your-mouth delicious! The perfect balance of creamy and savory, with a satifying crunch that will have you coming back for more. A little German Potato Salad on the side, and you’re in Globe heaven.
Go for the Reuben: Corned beef, sauerkraut and Russian dressing, grilled between slices of rye bread. Yum!
Photo: Brandy Young
Customers don’t just appreciate the homecooked meals, they come in to stock up on staples like sliced deli meats, cheeses, bakery-fresh bread, imported beers and other international treats.
“For people who are from Germany, or parts of Europe, The Globe can feel like a little piece of home here in America,” said Savisaar. “We have great distributors, and we really try to carry unique, hard-to-find items direct from their country of origin.
“These are not brands you’re going to find in Trader Joe’s or Target. Like the specialty, Ritter chocolate, or these gummy bears that are made in Turkey using entirely different gelatin, and entirely different recipe, than you’d otherwise find. People who know can instantly taste the difference.”
The Globe also carries 30 different varieties of beer – with a goal of carrying 50 sometime soon.
“We also have a helles lager on tap by Garage Brewery out of Temecula,” said Savisaar. “Their brewmeister is a die-hard German. He goes to Germany quite often to do research on beermaking. So it’s a typical, Munich-style lager, very drinkable, and it goes great with anything on our menu.”
On the day of our visit, Savisaar was working in good company. His wife, Buffy, was busy filling orders in the kitchen, while his good friend, and neighbor, Tobin Koehler, poured beer, took orders and rang up an endless parade of customers.
During our interview, Savisaar broke regularly to greet customers by name, recommend new items or chat about what’s new. The whole operation – from start to finish – really spoke to the family-owned, community-oriented vibe everyone wants in a neighborhood deli.
Savisaar and Koehler: Running A Deli Is More Fun With Friends, at The Globe Deli in Costa Mesa.
Since taking ownership, Savisaar has been growing The Globe’s catering business, too. Local businesses – from surgical offices to car dealerships – place large, lunch orders full of sandwiches and sides.
“One of our first caterings was a few months ago, and I billed it as a ‘Sausage Party,'” said Savisaar with a laugh. “A hundred people, and we brought in a variety of sausage, sauerkraut and some cold salads. It was so well-received that I’ve sold others on the idea since then. It’s a fun idea for a party or a unique, work event. Yeah, catering is really taking off for us.”
Serving the local community with good, fresh food – both lunch-by-lunch and at the catering level – feels like a natural next-step for The Globe, that still honors the tradition of its humble beginnings.
“There’s a lot of good, new things happening here in Costa Mesa,” said Savisaar. “It’s become very up-and-coming. They’re putting in million-dollar condos just down the street and part of me can’t even believe it. The Westside is definitely transforming, right now.”
As the city grows, Savisaar hopes Costa Mesa will still maintain the independent, family-owned charm that’s been a hallmark of the area for generations.
“Costa Mesa is full of locally-owned and operated establishments, and I think there is a genuine care for the city and its residents,” said Savisaar. “Yes, we’re running a business. But for The Globe, and so many other locals, it’s not just the bottom line that matters.
“I’m hoping The Globe Deli will serve as a tribute to Costa Mesa, for the generation that’s been coming here for decades, and also the generations yet to come. Costa Mesa is a unique city and we, for one, are very invested in keeping that alive.” ♥
